The Mad Men Fashion File - All Is Revealed
Now that you've gotten your Mad Men finale debates out of the way (Will Betty marry Henry? Can Sal ever return? What about Suzanne Farrell?), it's time to discuss the clothes. The finale's plotlines may have been particularly shocking, but the clothes were pretty much on par -- and maybe that's exactly the point.
This season has been all about unraveling, from Betty's marriage and Peggy's morals to Don's very identity. We got a hint of this at the very beginning of the season, when the stewardess slowly peeled off every layer she wore. Now that the artifice has been stripped, we can finally see what's underneath each person -- their desires, their feelings, who matters to them (and alternately, who they're willing to abandon). That means the archetypes we've explored all season in the clothes are more important than ever.
Let's start with the heartbreaking scene with Don, Betty, and the kids. As Don and Betty announce their divorce to the children, the words and feelings are fractured but the aesthetic is that of the perfect American family: Sally's Peter Pan collar, Betty's sweater set, Don's perfectly pushed-up sleeves exposing the starched white shirt underneath his sweater. They look like a Norman Rockwell painting, which only makes the news of the family's breakup feel even more churning.
Next we see Pete Campbell in his plaid bathrobe, receiving Don and Roger as if he were a prince and they're servants sent to wake him. In fact, Don and Roger entrust him with a pretty important and proactive "quest," but the visual reasserts Pete's position as both a favored child and someone whose pedigree matters more than his actual work. It also sets up a nifty tableau for Trudy who literally becomes "the woman behind the man" when she swoops in from the kitchen to save Pete from his own arrogance.
That brings us to Peggy Olson, who's essentially the exact opposite of Peter Campbell. Roger and Don use Pete for the relationships he was born into, and they use Peggy for the ideas and words she creates to escape her own upbringing. Maybe that's why Peggy's outfits this episode are so plain. It's because what Peggy does is more important than even who she is. Is that a manifestation of the American dream? Sure. But next time, I'd kill for a silk A-line sheath.
Finally, let's focus on the final image of Don -- renegade and rogue in the night, the wind swooping around -- it's all very dramatic. But there's one small detail, a quiet one, that I think stands out more than anything. Don's pocket square. Much has been made of Roger Sterling's three-pronged pocket square, a flourish that seems to signify him as the king of the office. But in the last episode, Don's straight square is equally alluring. Having finally confessed his true identity (identities?) to his wife, and broken out of his corporate routine to start a new agency of his own, Don has nothing to hide or spin anymore -- including his plain and straight accessories. Of course, that could all change with Season 4, Episode 1. See you next year...
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this blog about the clothing. This is just one of the many things that we all love about this show. The crew, designers, writers, etc. are amazing at how they help set the scene right down to every little detail. Whether it be the set, their hair and make up, to the clothing that each character wears.
Love this show!
Just a correction from one who was there then ~
That's not technically a "sweater set" Betty is wearing. A sweater set would have been two matching, not contrasting, pieces.
For your edification.
(now ~ please bring it back for reruns!!!)
Amen, jeffe, and faran. Gonna be a long stretch until S4, as usual.
I couldnt' help but notice the boxes of Christmas "stuff" (colored tree lights and an ornament box) on the Draper coffee table...contrasting the joyful with the sorrowful....so very Mad Men.
Lord give us strength to manage the long months.
...thank God for On Demand!
I couldn't help but notice Betty's nails painted that vicious RED color during the "Family Scene" shown above in the photo~~how appropriate on so many levels...I'm sure this wasn't an accident!
I got a good laugh @ myself when I saw when Peggy was wearing when she opened the door to Don @ her apartment. Except for her choice of footwear, that is exactly how I dressed for work as a staff assistant @ the old MCI Communications back in the early 1980s. I'd have worn Etienne Aigner black leather peeptoe "Nancy Reagan" low-heeled pumps or - gahd forbid - my trusty Brooks Brothers brown leather kiltie loafers (with the traditional almost-flat heel) & wool kneesocks! I wore kilts almost every day to work in the cooler months. I also wore Carroll Reed Ski Shop Peter Pan collar blouses with my monogram on them & Izod Lacoste sweaters.
My mom wore red nail polish all the time. That was really the only "color" a woman wore back then. There was also pink frost, white frost, & clear. That was about it.
I adored Trudy's outfit (especially her hat) when she showed up @ the room @ the Pierre with heaps of food! Plaid! We need more PLAID! ^_~
Love the "Shiny Brite" boxes of Christmas ornaments on the coffee table in the above photo! I have boxes & boxes of those (especially the pink ones). Love the real glass ones with the metal caps; now they make them plastic with clunky clear plastic caps.
Yes, I realize there were very limited nail polish colors at that time. My point was that this is, I believe, the first time Betty is shown wearing RED. Her preferred color is that frosty coral. I just thought it was interesting to see them choose this scene, where she covers her face with her hands in distress~~all I could see were the red nails, which looked almost vulgar, as is what she (and Mr. D) are doing to the children.
Yes Red Velvet Shoe! & she wasn't really crying! It was just "unpleasant."
I love all the insights that are posted on the blogs from cast and crew. Costuming and set dressing captured the living room scene perfectly. It looked like the Drapers were dressed for the annual Christmas card photo--not for the "separation" talk.
As always, great job by all involved. The props were spot-on as well.
Yes, SC we will need strength to get through all the dry months until S4 starts. We are all in it together, unlike Don and Betty.
One other thought, though, I donn't think Bobby's shirt is quite correct. My twin brothers would have been about the same age, and Mom would have dressed them in either oxford style shirts with a sweater vest or "polo" collared ban-lon knit shirts.
That looks like a flannel shirt over a l/s t-neck, kind of 90's.
Oh! Woe are we!!!! As my daughter said, "What will we do on Sunday nights???"....That's the down side to the absolute pleasure of looking forward to such a unique and awesome show every week - the harsh reality of the season finale. So long to wait.For now, I guess I will just have to watch the whole season all over again!!!
I love all the clothes. The crisp men's shirts, narrow lapels, skinny ties, polished traditional shoes, hats (fewer and fewer soon!), overcoats and the overall formality with touches of clss and style. For women the cut of the clothes, the great shoes and the evolution from the early 50s styles which lasted until the very early 60s to the Jackie look of the most recent season. Again, the formality but the touches of style and elegance. Unfortunately the mod and pop looks will be in soon enough. Think we got a preview of that with Trudy. Alas, farewell early 1960s - hellow hippie dippy 60s!
What the hell is all this bitching about the Draper marriage? Jesus! Many fans are acting like children caught up in a divorce. Deal with it. Don and Betty are not reconciling. It's over. Sally, Bobby and Gene will also have to deal with it, whether they like it or not.