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The Mad Men Fashion File - You Are Not What You Wear
Sometimes I think I can hear designer Janie Bryant laughing during the Mad Men episodes. Not because they're funny -- though yes, of course, they can be -- but because she has an uncanny knack for creating amazing irony with her outfits. It's almost as if she takes what the characters are doing, then figures out how to make them look like they'll do exactly the opposite. It's that juxtaposition that helps make the characters so rich -- and so sardonically hysterical.
A prime example this week is Sal, whose most recent plot line is definitely not funny. But still, his grand exit outfit was unconsciously amusing, wasn't it? For those who imagined Don's tagline of "Limit Your Exposure" as relating directly to Sterling Cooper's closeted art director, take heart: You can't get much more buttoned-up than a snug gray vest that literally holds in your heart and guts, plus a very wide tie to cover you more still -- so different from Pete Campbell's skinny signature. Poor Sal!
Another great example of the costume vs. action tension is teacher Suzanne Farrell. For someone with such progressive ideals (reading her pupils Martin Luther King Jr.'s "I Have a Dream" speech) and such careless behavior (uh, sleeping with her student's married father), her clothes are surprisingly modest and decidedly un-modern. Our first introduction to Suzanne was when she wore a long, opaque white dress that symbolized the purity and newness of spring. And now Miss Farrell favors longer hems and light colors -- more washed out than Betty's pastels -- with brushed silk flowers as her only pattern. Suzanne's outfits are in direct contrast with Betty's, another example of the clash between what a character does and what she wears. Betty's housewife role is so much more conventional than Suzanne's single working woman, yet her outfits are some of the most progressive in the series thus far. Think back to her abstract "Warhol" dress from her meeting with Henry; her Roman holiday outfit that was too theatrical to resist.
I suppose you could make the argument that Betty has a bigger shopping allowance, so of course her clothes are more fashion forward. But I'd like to give the meticulous Mad Men design team more credit than that, especially since the contrasts they create are interesting and exciting, particularly when you consider what Don sees in -- and on -- both Suzanne and Betty. Another reason it can't be simply a budget thing: Betty does revert back to "housewife basics" this episode -- the embroidered dress that cinches at the waist and winds down the collar with green embroidery, the blue chambray pleated blouse with neat red lipstick. Maybe she's reverting to the "safe" style because she's doing something devious -- though again, her first "date" with Henry Frances saw her in that mod-print sheath...
Finally, who wants to talk about Conrad Hilton's omnipresent Stetson hat? It might be the ultimate who-I-am vs. what-I-wear contrast this episode. Next to the smartened-up Sterling Cooper employees, the hotel mogul looks a bit like a renegade bumpkin. But he's the one running the show -- regardless of how much nattier Roger and Don look beside him.












The costuming is right on for Sal. he is trying hard to keep things buttoned up just like his vest. Great job!
As for Miss Suzanne, don't even get me started. I feel about her the same way Rachel Menken felt when Don mentioned the coupon. She is way out of her league, and really the only character that Matt Weiner has ever introduced into the show that made me say "What the H*** is he thinking!" Especially as a love interest for ultra suave Don Draper.
Betty does have a bigger shopping allowance and a lot better taste. Janie is dressing her beautifullyt his season as always.
Maybe Suzanne's longer, flowing skirts are foreshadowing the "love children" style which is coming. Her loose fitting clothes seem to also reflect her personality. IMHO
Her jogging/running outfit was, I think, a little ahead of its time - and of course, sport bras were not available then...need I say more?
I just love watching the wardrobe and the set; almost as much as the action on this show. The wardrobe I most covet is that of the goddess we call Joan. That purple number she wore in the department store scene was fabu! I'm wondering what affect the Mad Men retro style will have on our current fashion industry.
yes, can someone start a MadMen clothing line? Just a few things to spiff up the office wear would be great appreciated by many of us!
Talk about authentic. Check out the July 19, 1963 issue of Time magazine. Connie (Hilton) is on the cover, and in the story there are mentions of Hilton going "to the moon!" and also about his $100 Stetson hat, "whose price he mentions to anyone who will listen." This show does GREAT research!
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Have I mentioned recently that Janie Bryant is a farking genius? Janie Bryant is a farking genius.
I would bite somebody for the chance to dress like Roger Sterling for a week.
I've always found Brooks Brothers white pinpoint cotton oxford cloth button-downs to be incredibly sexy on men. (Don't forget, a button-down refers to the collar where the corners or points of the collar "button down" onto the shirt itself, NOT to the buttons the run down the front placket of the shirt.) Brooks Brothers white cotton dress shirts haven't changed; they're blousy in the back & cut wider in the shoulders & upper arms. Although one can buy an athletic fit nowadays, I still think the classic (unchanged) Brooks Brothers white dress shirt is the height of fashion for men. I also think Bryan Batt is the most handsome male on Mad Men! ;D
Suzanne told Don 'I'm just something new and different' and she nailed it. About her wardrobe, well, she lives in a garage apt. somehow I cant see her wearing Pucci.
About Sal's wardrobe, I think a wider tie fit his physique a lot better than the opposite.
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Indeed can someone start a MadMen clothing line? Just a few things to spiff up the office wear would be great appreciated by many of us!
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It also depicts the changing social mores of 1960s America.
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It's incredible how the designer manages to create this contrast between the characters and their outfits. This makes them a lot richer and more interesting. The black dresses remain a classic but the rest of the designs are very inspired.
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This is a good premier review. We can't get much more buttoned-up than a snug gray vest that literally holds in your heart and guts, plus a very wide tie to cover you more still -- so different from Pete Campbell's skinny signature. Poor Sal!
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I would have to say that Betty does have a bigger shopping allowance, so of course her clothes are more fashion forward. I love everything about this show and the fashion:
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