Mad Men

The Mad Men Fashion File - Clothes That Steal the Spotlight

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So now we know the truth: Before Mad Men, half the cast performed in Broadway musicals. At least, that's what we can infer from not one, but three songs (Paul's college ode, Roger's embarrassing serenade, and Joan's surprisingly adept accordion show), plus a polished dance routine from Pete and Trudy Campbell.

And while the cast took their turns in the spotlight, the clothes performed too. Straight out of the gate, we get another Ann-Margret reference, this time in the form of Hilary, an actress (and expert Twister) whose ruffled top and insanely sexy jeans are the color of Bazooka gum. Sitting across from her is Peggy Olson, in stark contrast, wearing a sober jacket and high-necked blouse.

Then comes Joan in a russet dress and a thinly disguised sneer brought on by Jane Siegel -- sorry, Jane Sterling. The new wife's diamond-print sheath hints at the coming mod movement and its graphic, A-line hallmarks. It's interesting to imagine how, come 1967, Jane will still be dressed in to-the-knee hemlines while her peers import miniskirts from Biba and Mary Quant. She'll probably cry. Also: The black-and-white diamond pattern on Jane's sheath is the same print traditionally used on Pierrot and Pierrette, a pair of French clowns who often sport tears. Hinting that Jane is half of a pantomime team is a great mirror to her new husband, whose (frankly, shocking) blackface act makes him into something of a bad, sad joke -- and a crass old fart, too.

Peggy returns again in the Saturday office scene. This time she's wearing a red silk blouse with another pussy bow, and her secretary, Olive, sports one as well, but bigger, flouncier, and much more girly. It's as if Olive's collar is trying to set the example for Peggy's feminine behavior, but Peggy's only absorbing 10 percent -- an idea enforced by her baked (but inspired) speech about having everything she wants. Also at the pot party, something kind of great: Paul's Princeton buddy stops in the office, and you suddenly see who (or what) Paul is trying to be. The loud plaid jacket, the half-cocked tie, the skinny khaki pant -- this is the brand-name version of Paul's ersatz beatnik.

At the end of the episode, Betty's in white lace and Don Draper's in black, and they kiss in the shadows. Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant often refers to Don and Betty as the toppers on a wedding cake. Here, as they make out in the moonlight, they sure look the part.



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Someone on this Forum said that Hilary's pink outfit was identical to one worn by Ann-Margret in "Birdee". Is that true?

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The two things I noticed most about Peggy's outfit the most were:

First, her blouse was tightly fitted, no looseness around the waist, even after she was laying on her couch.

Second, HER POSTURE! Looked like she could give lessons to Marine DI's.

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Paul's bud was wearing a madras jacket - very popular at the time. We had madras dresses and shorts, and guys wore madras shirts, jackets, ties and pants. Very cool!

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ok so not one word about the hats at the derby day party??? and that marshmellow confection (the new) mrs sterling wore to the office??

i also found the scene between joan and jane very interesting; joan all curvy and tucked in, jane lithe and free. two fashion points, the old and the new , crossing paths.

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and betty has lately taken to the nude lip/smoky eye combo- very fetching on her.

again i think of joan (much as i love love love her) and how anachronistic she will appear soon with her 50's lips and heavy makeup. what will she do when boobs go out of style?

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and betty has lately taken to the nude lip/smoky eye combo- very fetching on her.

again i think of joan (much as i love love love her) and how anachronistic she will appear soon with her 50's lips and heavy makeup. what will she do when boobs go out of style?

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Hey Z, yes that pink costume was identical to the one Ann-Margret wore in Bye, Bye Birdie, in the "Gotta Lot of Living to Do" number. Both versions are fabulous.

As much as I hate Jane and hope for only happiness for Joan, I think the black and white hat Jane wore to the office stole the entire show--up until the Campbell dance number, that is.

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I had some madras shorts when I was younger. Wore them out! I'm hoping that the show will help women see that there can be more to an everyday wardrobe than sweats and capri's and t-shirt. I'm a housewife (and proud to call myself one), and when I take my older son to school, I see cotton knit stretch workout clothing everywhere!

Anyway, I did love the dress Trudy wore to the party, did anybody else remember Jennifer's dress, I can't remember her husband's name, but he's the jr exec. with the glasses. She looks really good after having a baby 8 months before. I'm 15 months out from giving birth and I've still not gotten back. I'll have to see Jane's dress again to make a judgment on that one. Betty's pink lacy dress was beautiful. It made maternity look good.

I'm going to try to turn other people on to Mad Men so hopefully the fashion bug will bite. Dressing well, presenting yourself well, and being confident with yourself shows self-respect.

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Madras jackets - in my mid-60's high school, they were collegiate. I can hardly wait for paisley ties to show up. :-)

norman - big boobs will never go out of style. Just may not be tres chic. As for the rest, she has eyes and will adjust. Imagine Joan as an Earth Mama in the late sixties, early seventies. Oh, wow...

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This episode was absolutely fantastic. You can see the new themes creeping in, and Peggy's conversation (which was more like a monologue) with Olive the secretary seems to be a foreshadowing of the rifts the changing times are going to create within the offices of Sterling Cooper and beyond.

I completely agree that Paul's college buddy is a foil for him. He always seems so proud to be different, but in this episode, it seems he is trying to fit in. Even when he is on the brink of forcing his friend to leave, they suddenly burst into song! I think this moment is very revealing in terms of Paul's true identity versus the identity he desires to have.

The dancing and singing and accordion playing (!) were plentiful in this episode, and I enjoyed every minute of it :)

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Then it stands to reason that it is only a matter of time before Bryan Batt is singing onscreen, too. I recall seeing him in the cast of Sunset Blvd on Broadway years ago.

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Wrote on the FB site: Janie Bryant is a genius. Mad Men and Deadwood on one resume? That's a ridiculous amount of great work in a short period of time. Can't wait to see what she does next.

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Jeffrey's madras sport coat and chinos are pure early-60's Ivy League. A fabulous choice by the costumers.

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the clothing were fabulous. I had an aunt Lois who dressed for every event we went to. she had her cigarette holder wore the red lipstick and her hair was always in place. she was beautiful. this show brings back so many good memories of when I was a little girl and young teen. I love it.

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Looking forward to the next eposode.

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ANY info on Joan's amazing black and red wiggle dress????

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Beautiful! Joan always looks spectacular! Those hats were a little goofy, but then Derby Day hats do get goofy. So I wasn't the only one that Jane's white hat she wore to the office was a giant trussed up marshmallow.

Big boobs always get attention. As a busty lady, finding clothing and undergarments that fit isn't always an easy task at certain times when fashion goes skinny, but big boobs always find a way in somehow.

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WASP's still wear madras prints. WASP style never changes.

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Thanks to both AL and Zabadu. Loved seeing the picture.

There is a great picture on the Mad Men Main site of Don, Betty, Gene and the kids just after the May pole dance. Guess it is supposed to be the one they posed for. I love Betty's yellow maternity dress. It is gorgeous. .

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Isn't that pic gorgeous, z? And that dress of Betty's says "spring" sooooo much.

It's so nice to see Gene looking happy...but, Don seems to have that same expression (either a bad sinus headache or constipation, can't decide which!) he's had in all his S3 pics. Still looks gorgeous, but he does look perturbed somehow.

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...And in the very last pic (#28, I believe) of Peggy and Anita and their Mom....wonder what the hell it is that Mom is looking at that is making her so surprised/happy?

Could it be that Peggy has bought her her very own Hoover and she won't have to borrow Peg's anymore?

S u u u u c k !

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As I sat in my Episcopal church recently, starting at the back of a madras sport jacket worn by a fellow parishoner (Yale, 71) I couldn't help but think that there were plenty of folks in that room who've never left the 60s and Don Draper's world. My own father never had a shirt that didn't come from Brooks Brothers or a top coat that wasn't cashmere. His camels hair sport coat is 40 years old and still in use. My own sons' dress up uniform was a navy blue blazer, khakis (or grey flannel slacks), school tie and loafers (my sisters and I, in true WASP frugal fashion, passed on the blazers, to each other as our sons grew out of them; we had them in every size once the boys started dancing class at age 6). The first time my older son wore this outfit (age 6 or 7, when he graduated from short pants) he stared at himself in the mirror, shoved his hands in his pockets (another great WASP gesture) and proclaimed, "I look just like George Bush." I nearly threw up.
And when my Dad graduated from Columbia, one of his gifts was a shopping spree for sporting goods at Abercrombie & Fitch...the old A&F, not the new one that kids frequent.
WASP traditions die hard. Ralph Lauren, a nice Jewish guy from the Bronx, made his fortune studying the details of their style, so now anyone can dress up in dowdy, garish clothes that signal some sort of "to the manor born" pathology.
And SCFan: that look on Don's face is sexual frustration and constipation -- chronic conditions among WASP men.
On the subject of women's shape: While curves in women may have been okay for the lower middle class women of the 60s, being rail thin has always been an imperative for upper class women. (Jane Siegel Sterling got the message loud and clear, that's why she's continuing to lose so much weight her rings don't fit) Very rich old women have bird legs and round bellies because their livers are shot from chirrosis after years of heavy drinking to help them forget the misery of upper class life. They drink like fish and eat like birds. The arrival of Twiggy on the modeling scene was a testament to the worship of this kind of anorexic look. It will be interesting to see how SC treats this new kind of female image in their ad campaigns....Joan will need to go to a weight loss spa to affect the kind of look the chief surgeon's wife had at that recent dinner party.

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SCfan, of all the hairstyles Peggy could choose from, I bet she never goes for the French twist ala Mom and Sis. Was Anita's age ever mentioned? I am just wondering how much older than Peggy she is.

(Off topic, I sure miss hanging out with all the regular Maddicts, SCfan, and getting their views on everything Mad Men without mean spirited, trollish remarks. I know I am guilty of bad behavior occasionally, and I don't mind being slapped down by another grownup when it is called for. It is the tantrums of ill mannered children that get me down.)

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Ah norman, had to laugh at your comment on Joan Holloway Harris. The woman is so self-confident and has a style all her own. There is no need for her to be a slave to the fashion dictates of the day. She's one in a million. The bright blue and bright green combo she had on at the office this season, the two shades of purple she wore last season...who else but Joan could pull stuff like that off?

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No, z, I don't recall if Anita's age was ever mentioned....she seems quite a lot older than Peggy to me, however.

Off Topic, Yes, z, I too miss the old days....we can't help it if we were here "waaay back there" I get tired of being made to feel we've somehow done something wrong because we are cordial and friendly to each other (the clique, or whatever we're being called THIS season) and yes, I posted on another thread about how we "go through this at the start of each season" (troll invasions/rude posters) and it's true. I can't say I've always been perfectly behaved on the forum either....but, I do recall the vast majority of the Geezette (!) Maddicts usually tried our darndest to avoid being rude, and sometimes it was mighty difficult, no?

end of (justified) rant....

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And just to clarify...there are many interesting, funny, insightful, intelligent and WELCOME Maddicts on the boards since the new Season started (some old and some new).... I'm loving reading all the new points of view, etc. I did not mean the above as a blanket statement...just meant it to the posters to which it applies.

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Yes, BevC...that "look" Don has just might also be a guilty conscience....that is if he even has one, huh?

Actually, I think he does, he just always tries to ignore it....ulcers in his future?

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As an older child of the sixties - this show is right on. Betty and Don could be my parents. The treatment of women in the workplace is exactly has it was. Props to Peggy - she will break the glass ceiling and become more powerful, I hope, as the season continues. The research on this show is spot on.

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My two favorite style flashbacks so far: Joan's purse with the scarf tied to it; I remember doing that in the 60s and thinking I was so very very fashionable.

And Paul's mohair sweater. I don't remember a man wearing mohair back then, but every girl I knew had one. Mine was pink, a cardigan and I even wore it in summer.

I also remember being put on an airplane by my parents to be sent to my grandparents for the summer at their vacation place in Maine wearing a hat and white gloves (I was 8 or 9)

Soon come the Pappagallo flats, Ladybug shirtwaist dresses and John Romaine purses. It's like Sherman has set the WayBack machine...

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Sherman and the WayBack machine!! Love it, BeverlyC!

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It's taken 2 full seasons for me to distinguish between Katherine Olsen and her daughter Anita... They look , dress and sound exactly the same. We all know by now that this can not be an accident.
Anita gives the appearance of being much much older than Peggy but her toddler is almost the same age as Peggy's ....Anita's 2 older children, just from the glimpse we had of them last season as Peggy was forced to peek in to say goodnite, seemed to be ages 5 or 7 or so....
Katherine seems to dote on Peggy, not unusual for the baby of the family... There's not a family known to man who does not give special attention to the youngest child.. If you know an exception, I'd love to hear about it!!! Anita can hardly bear it and was quick to clue in Father Gill when she felt that her sister was getting way too much leeway . To see Peggy's indiscretion be lightly glossed over when she should be scorned was more than Anita, the good girl and dutiful wife to a malingerer, could tolerate...
Peggy seems to accecpt the role but we don't know if it is the impetus for her 'LIttle miss can't be wrong" approach to her professional attitude.
It will be interesting to see if, in seasons forward , we will see more of the family dynamic develop as workplace attitudes shift to meet changes in society....
I'm seeing parallels here between Betty and Peggy, differences in social standings yes, but same prefferential treatment by at least one parent.......

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I used to wonder if maybe Anita was Peggy's mom "disguised" as her sister!

There does seem to be such an age difference...and it might explain some of the bossiness/conflict with Katherine.

Maybe history has repeated itself when Peggy had a baby "out of wedlock" and Anita feels jealous because she "did the right thing" (in her mind, and who knows, maybe Katherine made her) and kept Peggy. Wouldn't be the first time a child has grown up thinking their mother is their sister! (Jack Nicholson and others are examples)

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SCfan, you really could be onto something when you suggest that Anita might have had and kept out-of-wedlock baby Peggy and passed her to on to Katherine and assumed the role of older sister. Sure it's possible that A's somewhat harsh attitude toward P's not keeping her baby could simply be envy and/or religion-fueled shame, but it wouldn't surprise me if your theory pans out. Good job. Earlier in the series I had a hard time distinguishing Peggy's mother and older sister, and that puzzled me. It would be so cool if it turns out that MW made them a little too much alike on purpose! Either way, I don't think the baby will resurface for Peggy or Pete, because I think that's too predictable for this show. I think that MW just wants us to be in suspense about the possibility. Okay, I've gone way off-topic for the fashion blog - sorry for doing that.

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Thanks, catiger, I do tend to lean toward the soapy sometimes in my predictions/suspicions for the characters on MM....some of these come from real events I witnessed in my neighborhood and /or extended family growing up. I think the saying "truth is stranger than fiction" can and does ring true now and then.

I, too, believe Pete and Peggy's baby is adopted for good and won't be mentioned again.....and don't apologize for going off-topic (some of the best and most intriguing posts on the forum are not strictly on topic, IMO)

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Hi SCfan,
You're probably no longer following this thread, but in case you are, I just want to say that I was glad to see Peggy's sister supporting Peggy's move to Manhattan on the latest episode. Her mother sure didn't take the news well. MM sure doesn't portray mothers in a positive way, does it?

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The poster above has the WASP fashion thing down for sure...the fashions never really change. And I saw similar fashions (and hangovers) at my own Episcopalian church growing up in the 70's/80's.
Preppy style isn't just an Ivy League thing; it's an East Coast thing. The look has always been big in the South too. I still go to summer weddings wearing seersucker or khaki poplin suits. I had a madras plaid blazer similar to the one Princeton Paul's pot buddy wore. Dad passed it down to me, the one he bought at Alexander Julian's father's shop in Chapel Hill, back in the mid 50's when he was in college at UNC. (wish I hadn't outgrown it...I loved that blazer.)
Blue blazers, khakis, loafers, wallabees, "dirty bucks," oxford cloth button-downs; ladies in madras sundresses and hair bands - all still big in high schools and on college campuses even now. Although, the kids dress down a lot more now than even we did in the 80's; they don't even dress up for football games anymore...which is kinda' sad actually.
I think it's neat that back then, guys wore ties and blazers even on weekends; to sporting events; to dinner, etc.. I wish people would dress up a little more nowadays. Everything has gotten so casual. It's rare to see anyone dressing up for dinner, even at high-end restaurants.

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