The Mad Men Fashion File- Girls! Girls! Girls!
There was a phrase in college that I never really liked, but always sort of believed -- in the minds of men, "there are the girls you sleep with, and then the girls you marry."
Or, to Don Draper and company, there are the Jackies and the Marilyns.
This distinction means a lot -- in history, to the story, to Peggy Olson and her indignant eyebrows and her transformation into something more crafted than before. But I'll let you guys tackle all that -- I'm here for the clothes.
It seems in the world of MM, the difference between Jackies and Marilyns can be determined by a small piece of fabric -- the bra.
You can see it most with Joan, whose pointy poitrine edges its way into nearly every shot. If she's the ultimate Marilyn -- someone who, as costume designer Janie Bryant says, "knows what she's got, and knows how to use it" -- then her power rests in putting all her assets out there. Or -- one false move and I'll stab you with my bra. Playtex may not want to go there, but plenty of men would.
Aesthetically, Joan's opposite is Peggy (and how neat they're both redheads, right?), but in the world of Marilyn and Jackie, Peggy doesn't really exist -- at least not yet. Instead, we've got Betty Draper, who worships Marilyn in magazines but plays the part of Jackie at home.
We've seen Betty's underwear before, and while it's certainly provocative, it's not exactly all-access. The merry widow corset from the Valentine's Day episode was all about suggestion. The lace nightie in bed covered more than what some girls today would wear to the Roosevelt. And the one time Betty does wear a bikini, Don shuts it down fast. With the rest of her wardrobe, Betty's still clinging to the Disney Princess closet that's certainly beautiful, but still conservative -- something we may see change in coming episodes if her changing color palette is any indication.
And let's go back to what costume designer Janie Bryant said last week -- that the reason she's obsessed with undergarments is because "they show you what's underneath, and what's holding the person up."
As women on the series change what they want and how they're trying to get it, it's a safe bet that their shapes, and their underwear, will change too. So let's take some bets -- how long before Jane Siegel starts wearing a pointy bra?
This was a great connection between the styles and attitudes of the female characters and their undergarment selection. I've always called the pointy bra's "bullet bras" b/c they seem to give the impression that something could shoot right out there. Being a little on the busty side myself, I'm sure I would resemble more of a Joan in one than the more petite Jane.
I think it would be funny to see Peggy in one! The guys at the office would be in shock!
Oh, God, the underwear we women wore back then! You men have no idea. Nor do the young women of today. Basically nothing was supposed to move. Marilyn Monroe might jiggle, but woe to any normal young woman - no jiggling unless you wanted to be talked about! We strapped on, tugged on, hooked, buttoned and fastened, and then we covered it all with a nice white full slip, maybe some crinolines and then our dress or skirt and blouse. If any man wanted to get into our pants, they had their work cut out for them. Actually, it kinda added to the fun!
"one false move and I'll stab you with my bra"-hysterical! Reminds me of the Fembots, with their bra-guns.
I once read that the term "loose woman" actually refered to women who stopped wearing lace up corsets and stays. It grew to mean a woman who was morally "loose" because she defied convention and freed herself of those confining strait jacket underthings. Free your body and you free your mind.
Nice column,Faran - relationship of fashion and real life of the times.
I was in a vintage shop not long ago, and overheard the proprietress mentioned the buyers for this show bought $7,000 of clothes last year, and $8,000 this year. And that's one shop! I can only imagine the total bill per season. But it's worth it. Everyone looks spectacular and spot-on authentic.
I love hearing about where you find the clothes and what you've done with them. Please tell us more!
Remember the old Red Skelton sketch where he's a woman pulling on her girdle? Hilarious. But, exactly like it was...I remember pulling those suckers on and you literally had to stop to catch your breath...then if you saw you had a runner in your hose...horrors! You had to take the damn thing off, put on new hose and start all over!
I remember wearing a girdle in junior high. Even though I barely had anything to jiggle, you'd be considered a slut if you didn't wear a girdle. Don't let's even talk about sanitary pads with those horrible belts!
And wearing those circular-sewn cotton bullet bras! Talk about bumpy...heaven forbid you wore your orlon twin set with one of those.
makes me itcjust reading! glad I was a teen in the mid 80"s!
itch. I meant to type itch. Oh, well.
A recent episode showed Peggy dressing with pantyhose. I am quite sure that panty hose didnt exist until AFTER the miniskirt came out around 1966.
Jackie would not have filled out that bra.
Spanks and smoothers are in - practically like the old girdles.
what goes around comes around.
My mom wore this rubber girdle- not that she was fat at all, but it was expected. It was totally latex and in hot weather, the sweat literally ran off that thing. She would get out of the car and there would be a puddle. I guess today it would be like a wrap that temporarily melts off water weight.
Yes, pantyhose weren't around before 1966 or 1967 ; I was in junior high around that time and remember still wearing the garter belt and stockings (just for church or special occassions!) and fishnets that were available in unusual colors. Does anyone remember those? They were big for a year or so in the mid to late '60's' and were not considered 'erotic' at that time!