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The Mad Men Fashion File - The Color of the Moment Is Red
This weekly look at the fashion of Mad Men is written by Faran Krentcil, the founder of Fashionista.com who currently works at Nylon and Page Six Magazine. She thinks historical accuracy is kind of overrated, especially when dealing with hyper-stylized fiction.
And this week on Mad Men, we all saw red.
It was there at Paul's party, when Joan wielded her admired, and eventually robbed, purse. It was there the next morning, when Peggy woke up hungover, hanging over her bed, and still in her red party dress. It was there at Pete Campbell's house, when his sister-in-law managed to belie her "in mourning" outfit with a shock of blood-kissed lips. It was there in the bathroom, when Trudie Campbell sat in her towel and turban. And it was there at the very end, when Don sat in Shangri-La and didn't go home with the waitress.
The interesting thing is that costume designers love to weld red to sex. Lola in Damn Yankees gets a red dress. Madonna in Evita (and A League of Their Own, and Dick Tracy) gets a red dress. Scarlett Johansson always gets a red dress. Hell, even Jessica Rabbit gets a red dress. But this time, the red wasn't very sexy. In fact, it was sort of the opposite.
Every time we saw red, we also saw rejection. Joan's red purse gets the spotlight after she realizes, rather monstrously, that Paul has definitely moved on. Trudy wears red just before a funeral, not just before a hot date. And the red-lit restaurant is where Don Draper throws out his client as well as his latest chance to cheat on Betty. So in a way, we've got a stoplight thing going, fueled by fabric instead of electricity.
And speaking of jolts, thanks for all your comments. I'd like to especially thank Robyn and Blanche, without whom I never would have found my new best friend: Fashionable Clothing From the Sears Catalog: Early 1960s, a photo book of actual Sears looks that showcases overblouses (Robyn! Overblouses!) and slim pants in Kool-Aid colors. I've also been looking at period Vogues, and while I will say that the silhouette seems closer to the body and longer than what's happening on TV (so many cinched waists and crinoline skirts this episode...), I will also say that I'm more convinced than ever that Mad Men's costume department is memorizing this period with more detail, nuance, and exploration than a med school student in surgery. No doubt you'll disagree with me in the comments section below, so carry on. Oh and yes, you're right Peggy Sue, there could be more hats, though so much of this show happens indoors...
Anyway, back to the show. Besides the red, there was one more thing that I couldn't shake after watching Episode Two, twice: The clashing of the old and the new, as embodied in the clothes. Did you see Trudy Campbell in her blue checked dress, standing right in front of a John Singer Sergeant painting? That was blinding. Peggy's clashing shape and hair and pattern next to her mom and sister? Another fashion fault line. I suspect the further that boundaries blur on the series, the further this will all get pushed, especially as winter turns to summer on the show -- let's remember bikinis first started appearing on film in 1963, with Frankie and Annette making a movie called Bikini Beach in '64. I'm totally hoping Joan goes to the Jersey Shore in Season Three, and I know I'm not the only one...
PS, Alex, Ben Sherman cuts all of its suits after Saville Row models from the '60s. Their cuts start from 1964, so you'll be a little ahead of the Mad Men, but it's not terribly expensive and it gets the lines right.












Matt Weiner always says that you have old things in any year. You don't wear all 1962 clothes in 1962. But there's no doubt in my mind that Trudy Campbell would wear a brand new and fashion-forward dress to Pete's co-worker's party, and so that dress (which was gorgeous!) should have had a to-the-moment silhouette.
I actually think Trudy may wear fuller skirts to de-emphasize the fact that she isn't pregnant yet and so desperately wants to be. She may not be feeling the best about herself lately because of that and so is wearing things that are a bit behind the fashion magazines.
THANK YOU MME G! I actually wrote "Van Eyck silhouette" in my notes from the beginning of the show - you know, the painting where the (barren, ultimately divorced) wife is shown with a full bulging skirt to insinuate fertility and family? Yeah.
I don't really think anyone needs to "break our bubbles" over opinions on the show - it can't possibly be an exact depiction of what everyone in 1962 was wearing or doing. The production designers, writers and costumers are interpreting their version of the time and have invited us to do the same with these forums.
Karan, I knew exactly what you meant by "Van Eyck silhouette! :-)
I don't remember any women my mother's age or older regularly wearing hats in 1962. (I was born in 1957). Some women my grandmother's age would wear hats occasionally. Maybe hats at that point in time were a regional thing. They did wear full skirts though, and crinolines for dressy occasions. White gloves were still worn, especially by older women, and occasionally by younger women and girls when dressing up.
Faran, seriously? Absolutely no commentary about Joan's shoes and bag not matching? Are you paying attention? Do you know anything about fashion from that part of the century? Women would not leave the house without their bags and shoes not matching.
Enough of this red symbolism crap. Focus on the fashion.
And seriously, Faran, Sears? This show takes place in Manhattan. Do YOU shop at Sears? Do you know anyone that shops at Sears? Why do you think women in the 60's in Manhattan shopped at Sears?
Wasn't the red purse known as a "Kelly Bag" after Grace Kelly who made it so popular???
Are you putting darts in the women's blouses and dresses? I remember learning to sew them in home economics class in 8th grade.
You are so RIGHT ON about the crystal necklaces women wore! My mother had at least 3-5 of them with various styled earrings and wore them w/ everything it seemed like! What's even more coincidental was my mom's name was Aurora which means "the dawn" and I believe these crystal necklaces were irridescent (or at least hers were, like the Aurora Boreallis)
BTW, for some reason I think the Kelly bag was black patent but I know I could be wrong. My mom had at least 5 of those too!
Those of you talking about secretaries NOT shopping at Sears are in error - many, many people ordered from catalogs in those days. I think it highly likely that Manhattan secretaries used the Sears, Spiegel and Montgomery Ward catalogs to order at least part of their wardrobe.
I'm sure some secretary somewhere in the 60's shopped at Sears. But to do all her research on 60's fashion, Faran is using Vogue and Sears. I mean can you imagine using that today. Ridiculous. Like there is nothing in between. And the ladies on this show are definitely in between.
It's John Singer SARGENT. Your blog has become a laughingstock.
Joan's red purse was not stolen, he just lifted her driver's lic. and copied it.
A few suggestions, hope you will take them in the spirit in which they are offered:
1.People who read this are real fans. You have to watch the show or it sounds like you are just checking it out really fast and faking the rest.
2. I don't think you have a clue as to the reflection of the changing times that the 1960's fashions mirror. Every hairdo, every dress, every accessory means something, it's not just for fun. The fashion stuff is almost its own character in the story.
3. I realize you probably don't have the perspective of having lived in the 60's, but I think you should do some research. What was on people's backs was also inside their heads. Big changes for women were also big changes in fashion.Your blog would come across as less fluffy if you learn a little history.
But I do think it is improving!
Wow, who would have guessed that the Mad Men fashion blog would have some of the rudest commenters on the web? Interesting.